BMR Suspension 4th Gen GM F-body Sub-frame Connectors

BMR Suspension 4th Gen GM F-body Sub-frame Connectors

December 19, 2014
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Reduce chassis flex and improve handling on your 4th Gen GM F-body with four-point sub-frame connectors from BMR Suspension. Since the F-body does not have a full frame, the chassis flexes dramatically even with mild amounts of torque and horsepower. Manufactured from a mix of 2- x 2-inch square tubing, 2- x 1-inch rectangular steel tubing, and laser-cut CNC-formed 3/16-inch steel plate, these sub-frame connectors add loads of strength in all the right places.

BMR Suspension 4th Gen GM F-body Bolt-In Subframe Connectors

The BMR Four-Point Sub-Frame Connectors (SFC019 weld-on, SFC020 bolt-on) connect the front sub-frame to the rear sub-frame to the rear lower control arm mounts to the transmission tunnel brace. This four-point design is far superior to other subframe connectors on the market, because it links the front and rear sub-frames, where others only connect the front sub-frame to the lower control arm mount. The BMR design does a much better job of preventing the rear of the chassis from flexing.

1993-2002 Camaro Subframe Connectors

BMR has designed their 4th Gen GM F-Body Subframe Connectors for street performance, drag race, and handling applications. Available in black hammertone and red powdercoat for long-lasting good looks. Installation time is about 2-3 hours. Proudly made in the U.S.A.

Reduce chassis flex and improve handling on your 4th Gen GM F-body with four-point sub-frame connectors from BMR Suspension. Since the F-body does not have a full frame, the chassis flexes dramatically even with mild amounts of torque and horsepower. Manufactured from a mix of 2- x 2-inch square tubing, 2- x 1-inch rectangular steel tubing, and laser-cut CNC-formed 3/16-inch steel plate, these sub-frame connectors add loads of strength in all the right places. The BMR Four-Point Sub-Frame Connectors (SFC019 weld-on, SFC020 bolt-on) connect the front sub-frame to the rear sub-frame to the rear lower control arm mounts to the transmission tunnel brace. This four-point design is far superior to other subframe connectors on the market, because it links the front and rear sub-frames, where others only connect the front sub-frame to the lower control arm mount. The BMR design does a much better job of preventing the rear of the chassis from flexing. BMR has designed their 4th Gen GM F-Body Subframe Connectors for street performance, drag race, and handling applications. Available in black hammertone and red powdercoat for long-lasting good looks. Installation time is about 2-3 hours. Proudly made in the U.S.A.

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  1. Is the BMR suspension sub frame made for car’s in the GM company like would it fit under my 94 Buick Century and would a full-floating rear axle be better than a semi-floating rear axle on a FWD car like the 02 Ford Focus SE or LX has and how stiff would I have to have the suspension to put a 185/70/R15 under the rear and 185/65/R15 under the front, and what trans. for the FWD cars are more likely to give better response and give more gears, like 5 or 6 for automatic transmission, mine has an automatic 4 speed plus auto-overdrive (O/D) with 3 speed tow gears which is powered by a 3.1L SFI V6 3100 series engine, it’s a cast iron block, which needs a lot of work to get it running the way I want, I’d like to have my shifter down in the middle where the manual transmission is instead of on the steering column that way I can get a new steering wheel, column and steering components to fix the play in the steering. I’m thinking a 30/30 cam, new crankshaft and 6 forged flat head pistons in forged metal(s) that would stand the high temperature’s due to my fan not working like it’s supposed to in which I am going for the race car switch setup and run them and other components/parts to a flip switch in the car, a heat sink radiator to help cool it down faster along with new primary and secondary fan’s, new water pump, A/C system removal and pulley replacement, probably a split fuel port and dual carburetors a bigger gas tank like 20 to 24 gal. instead of the 15 or 16 gal tank currently on it a Monte Carlo SS front and rear bumpers, true dual exhaust with a 2.5in. or 3in. exhaust and 2 catalytic converters near the exhaust manifold one for each manifold, cause mine is gone from bottoming out on a trail after going off-roading, I damaged the cat. and almost completely crushed my exhaust near the exhaust pipe that comes out of the header’s so I had to cut it off and cut some of the damaged exhaust and leave as much of the exhaust pipe that points to the back so I could put another pipe to close the gap that was made after removing the cat. I did take the muffler off, I opened the muffler and the entire insides were rusted and the rust was quite bad and had almost rusted completely through the internal pipes.

    A new suspension to lift about 3/4in lift and fit slightly wider tires in the rear than in front.”P185/65-70R15 for front and P185/70-75R15 for the rear”. I also need to find 4 doors that are manual roll up so i can get rid of the electronic Windows and Lock’s, 2 for the back and 2 for the front that can be made to house speakers in, the driver side door is kinda dangling by the bottom bracket and the top bracket is extremely loose from not having a bearing stud and the back doors are stiff and I’m about tired of regreasing them and the 2 driver-side doors don’t have springs to hold them in place to keep them from swinging back when the car is on a slight incline like sitting on a wood block no higher than 6 inches, the passenger front door window is off the track and has a broken guide pin which runs on the outer edge of the door near the latch side and the motor has seized up, the right rear will sometimes not unlock when the car is shut off or unlocked manually and will sometimes the window will stick and take a whole day to roll up, and all the doors are hard to close and you would have to slam them to get them to close good especially the driver’s door,
    a custom dash board to have speedometer, RPMs, water gauges, oil gauges, miles on the engine, in which mine has stopped at 208,675.5 miles, And i have put about 2 1/2 to 3K miles on it from driving from Aiken to Greenville once a week and riding about 60 to 70 miles per day when I have the money for gas in Aiken and Greenville, A trip gauge to counter how far I drive on a tank of gas, a light weight custom chassis to put under a FWD car, a street legal roll cage to fix the body roll unless I need to have the body rebalanced and a forward mounted engine which is like a FWD setup(transversally mounted) and I want to get a light weight chassis that would be rated for up to 400HP and torque to put AWD swap in, A fuse to switch it from AWD to FWD don’t know which axle it would shut off, but it would eliminate the need for a transfer case will make the bottom of the car have more clearance to maneuver over and around objects on the trail, I don’t know if there is a trans. like an AWD transversely mounted engine and transmission like the VW or Audi, that would work for my 94 Buick Century if I could get ahold of a trans. to go from FWD to AWD and the engine sit transversely like most FF car’s I’d like to keep the engine that’s in it now but have AWD built in with some sort of semi-floating or full-floating rear axle I don’t know which is better, and yes I do take it off-roading not in the deep mud just on dirt roads and mud holes along the sides of the dirt roads.

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